I've never surfed, but I could watch people do it all day. In Tahiti there's a village called Teahupoo and it's famous with surfers because of the big waves that are there to the point that the word "teahupoo" has come to be synonymous with big, dangerous surfing waves.
It must have something to do with the amplitude and frequency of the wave itself and how it interacts with the ocean floor as it approaches shore that make these waves particularly big and "heavy", though I'm not sure what a heavy wave is.
On the day this video was shot by Chris Bryan, they were filming some footage for Billabong and the Navy had issued a rare "double code-red" which means anybody caught in the water will be arrested. Predictably these surfers ignored the Navy, grabbed their boards, and headed out....and for that we thank them.
With the high-res photography and haunting music for accompaniment, this is mesmerizing to watch in full-screen mode with your speakers turned up a little. Enjoy!